Daniel's New York Bytes

Blog-Worthy Chinese Food

grand

Grand Sichuan in St. Marks Place has been reviewed and praised countless times by countless Times but up until now, I wasn't convinced it was truly blog-worthy. Tonight proved to me that it was. If I were to plot restaurants on a graph measuring worthy-ness, I would have taste on the X axis and "life toll" on the Y. For me, "life toll" represents how much of a toll the experience would take on your life, namely time required, financial burden and anxiety level. Grand Sichuan would probably land somewhere like this:

chart

I chose to compare Grand Sichuan to Phillipe because Phillipe is expensive and well-known. According to my statistical analysis, Grand Sichuan may be more of a toll on my life, but the superior taste makes it worth the trouble. Phillipe is owned by Mr. Chow (the same guy who owns, Mr. Chow's), which is maybe my least favorite Chinese restaurant ever to go despite minimal life tolls. And believe me, I've had a lot of bad Chinese. When I lived in rural Massachusetts I tried every Chinese restaurant in the area. It's possible I ate at 50 different Golden/Dragon/Sun/Moon/Jade/Palace/City/Empires and I am now convinced that a single supplier sells to them all, right down to the same old, murky aquarium looking hot and sour soup. Nowadays, whenever I'm hit with a sub standard hot and sour it whisks me back to the friendly confines of Norton, Mass. where the chopsticks always break unevenly and the soup tastes suspiciously like the mud slush you just dragged in.

I don't know why, but I never realized how completely blown away I always am by the food at Grand Sichuan until tonight.The soup dumplings are homeruns, the chicken with dry chilies is a homerun, and everything else I've had there is at least a double, save for the hot and sour which isn't bad, but it's surely not going to the hall of fame.

 chicken

dumplings

I have never had a bad experience there. And while sitting there this evening with a soup dumpling draping over the edges of my classic soupspoon, I realized just how much I was taking good Chinese food for granted.

 

 

 

E-mail Print PDF

Best. Cookie. Ever.

 desserttruck

I eat on St. Mark's a lot, it's right near my apartment and it feels like a whole different world. There are lots of great places on St. Marks but I'll save those for another post. This one is all about the cookie and Dessert Truck, which rests at the end of St. Marks, on 3rd Avenue, makes the best cookie I have ever had.

Dessert Truck was the brainchild of three pastry chefs who met while working at Le Cirque. They decided to get out of the sit-down game and hit the streets. Just three respected chefs, on top of their game, serving everything out of Costco cups. At first sight, Dessert Truck looks like the hole in the wall of food trucks. Although it's covered in their friendly logo, the inside looks more like a meth lab. It has a couple of warming ovens (housing their options for the night), a prep area and four gas burners with some beat up pans. On the window facing in, there are tattered posters noting the trucks accomplishments. Their bread pudding beat Bobby Flay in a Throwdown, the Truck is a staple at the prestigious Vendy Awards, and its hot chocolate is top five in the city according to New York Magazine.

desserttruckline

Me waiting behind two individuals closer to the prize than me.

But for me, it's cookie day. I think they use a shortbread hybrid, it's thick and crunchy and soft and chewy. They also use the best chocolate ever served out of a vehicle, and best of all there's a lot of it. Whenever I share the cookies with someone it's always the first thing they notice. In the name chocolate chip cookie, chocolate and chip account for 66.6 percent of the words and 68.4 percent of the characters. Along with the chocolate you get the crunch, followed by the rich sweetness. It's a clumpy, chocolaty mess that could only be so perfect in the hands of world-class pastry chefs.

cookie

The famous cookie next to their Nutella filled donuts.

Even though I live for their cookie, every one of their portable perfections is just as potent. They recently ushered in a goat cheesecake that reminds you of the existence of real cheese in this generally Phili Cheese diluted dessert. My favorite thing about Dessert Truck is that they sell out of everything every night. If you get there past 10:30pm, they typically have only odds and ends. It’s reminiscent of the times when chefs made only what they could keep fresh and treats didn’t come in factory-sealed packaging.

 

Photo credit: Photos taken by my art teacher (www.saulchernick.com). If your reading this small print you might as well check him out.

E-mail Print PDF

Eataly and Mixed Feelings

I have mixed feelings about Eataly, Mario Batali and Oscar Farinetti's giant Italian food emporium...

On the one hand: Eataly’s motto is “Life is too short not to eat well," and when faced with the decision between eating good food and not, I'll always take good food. Luckily, this place is filled to the rafters with good food--even great food! Not only is Eataly geographically perfect (it is situated right next to Madison Square Park in the heart of the flatiron district) their grocery selection offers a range of produce superior to any that I have found. Notably, I was taken aback by the 10 obscure varieties of lemons and limes. They have mushrooms that even Eminem hasn’t come across. Eataly is the place to go for food products you can’t find at the local grocery store.

On the other hand: Eataly’s motto is, “Life is too short not to eat well,” but it should be, “Eataly is too crowded and expensive to eat well.” If you like to shop for food amidst an Apple store attitude than Eataly is your heaven. It allows anyone willing to drop the coin to be a foodie within its walls. Not to mention, the bags have now become a fashion statement. You’re not a fashionable New Yorker unless you have a pricey handbag on one shoulder and a reusable Eataly shopping bag on the other. For reasons of neurosis I have problems enjoying Eataly especially when surrounded by people happily paying hundreds of dollars for white truffles thinking that they are chocolate.

The first thing I saw when I walked in the door was their produce. You get the exact impression you’re intended to: that of a rustic, earthy, Tuscan market with a (well-hidden) facelift. To the left of the produce isa vegetable butcher. The butcher has lots of different salads and fried veggies to sample and buy. My first purchase was at the cured meats butcher, where I ordered a half-pound of their top prosciutto and a half-pound of a hot sopresseta salami. The salami was cured in Seattle by Mario Batali’s father, not sure how I feel about that, like an earmark on an elephant. The salami tastes like Maggi seasoning. The lady slicing it for me cut her finger. The manager called over another employee and he filled in smoothly.  

There are small seating areas at each food station as well as a handful of places to sit and stand to eat all over Eataly. In the back, they have sections for coffee, gelato, treats and even a secret pizza window. The vegetable butcher is first but then I saw the antipasto standing area, where apparently the “coolest people in New York” hang out. Herds of après work-peacoats flock to these high top tables to stand, drink wine and eat cheese. I might have to buy a peacoat because the selection of charcuterie is amazing. Beyond that they have two full sit down restaurants of scaling formality. One restaurant is more casual and located amidst the madness; the other is a darker more private haven from the commotion.

 I went to the more casual restaurant and sat at the bar. I started with a mediocre fennel and apple salad then went on to pizza and pasta. Angiolotti with a veal ragu and a classic marinara pizza with hot sausage. The pasta was simple, creamy and al dente. They say they serve their pasta al dente because it has more flavour. Christian Bale would say: “Oh good for you.” The pizza was good, but the truth is better pizza exists. Mine had too much liquid in the middle to allow for a nice crust. And what’s with putting token basil on pizza? Put basil on or don’t, it’s not a garnish in my mind.

Eataly has enough good food to be satisfied and although a mob scene, it is a “cool” place to say the least. I have a hard time calling it a grocery store though; I think it’s more of a “food experience.” Experiences can feed you, experiences can frustrate you and sometimes experiences can have you putting on your best clothes just to buy ground chuck. And while the Union Square greenmarket is another place where the image and popularity battle the authenticity, if I’m just buying meats and vegetables I find it to be a less anxious endeavor. Either way, Eataly is worth the visit, if only just to see the Matrix.

E-mail Print PDF

Chasing Souvlaki

I feel like every food conversation in New York involves food trucks. A lot of very talented chefs and home cooks with classic family recipes have turned to four wheels as a simpler and cheaper way to make their food available. The demand for this new gourmet street food, especially those taking advantage of the Twitter phenomenon, have made for some pretty popular trucks.

I spotted the infamous Souvlaki Truck (also known as @Souvlakitruck on Twitter) on a warm Sunday afternoon in Soho, while combing the streets in my Vendy Awards shirt. On some weekend days I will graze from one food point to the next. I can knock off 4 or 5 square blocks on one stomach, hunting for authentic specialty dishes. My real motivation is to bring someone there someday and receive praise for area and food knowledge. On most weekends Souvlaki Truck sets up shop in Soho and I was next in line.

Photo Credit: Kathy YL Chan (http://www.flickr.com/photos/kathyylchan/5156438371/)

I first discovered Souvlaki Truck at the Vendy Awards, which is held annually on Governer's Island. What can be called the Super Bowl of street food is becoming a can't-miss event, especially for someone who has not been in the city long enough to try many of the famous trucks. I did not have the chance to eat their food that day because the line was astronomical. It was their first year at the Vendy Awards competition and the truck took home the prestigious Rookie of the Year award. "You know how the Yankees feel when they win the Series?" Kostas Plagos, one of the two owners asked me. "That's how we felt."

They construct their chicken souvlaki with four or five perfect pieces of skewered chicken, followed by two hand cut French fries, lettuce, red onion and home made tzatziki all on a fresh grilled pita. They make everything to order, so you have to wait for a minute, but they are so friendly that I don't mind, even in the winter.

Photo Credit: Kathy YL Chan (http://www.flickr.com/photos/kathyylchan/5157045980/)

I felt like such an idiot wearing the Vendy Awards shirt that afternoon in Soho. I was sure they thought I was a food truck groupie. With a smile on his face Kostas said something like "Uh-oh, another stalker." And there's no doubt they have a huge following-physically as well as on Twitter. So of course I got out my phone and conjured up a silly tweet to them to say thank you for the meal and within minutes they posted it to their page.

And yes, I'll admit, after I crunched a couple souvies I went right back on my phone and followed them too.  

E-mail Print PDF

Lucy's Tweets

about 3 hours ago @CynthiaDale I feel thatw ay sometimes with the computer.
about 3 hours ago Thanks to everyone retweeting to get swabbed for my brother. Please let your community know. It is the best way to get volunteers.
about 3 hours ago @CynthiaDale The Gobe links or links to my website? Let me know
about 5 hours ago Italy is one of my favourite foodie locations. Bring the flavours to your home tonight with this menu I put together http://t.co/TnBmjz6z
about 5 hours ago We know it's not Valentine's Day anymore but you can still celebrate love with these three delicious recipes. http://t.co/932giniQ
about 5 hours ago My brother David Geneen is in desperate need of a stem cell transplant. It's only a cheek swab. http://t.co/zVkZubKq
about 1 day ago @jndyck @candicebest Thanks for favouring. They are great fun, a bit like the old fashioned salons with food.
about 1 day ago Opening the door to secret supper clubs (closed door restaurants) around world. Most fun places to eat in a new city. http://t.co/GzyHrsG0
about 1 day ago @Sue_Kingsley You broke the tie veal chops it is.
about 1 day ago @edibleTORONTO Great reply . Love it.
about 1 day ago If you were making a dinner for your loved one that would hopefully end with a proposal -veal chops or butter poached salmon
about 1 day ago @DanaMcCauley Thanks for the article. Interesting
about 2 days ago @BeingMarci OK now.
about 2 days ago web site crashed . Will be up shortly for allergen free chocolate cake recipe. Thanks
about 2 days ago @karmasdogma @Kasadusko @STLTO_WINE @BACWHITEHORSE thanks for the retweets - the chocolate cake has pleased so many allergic children.
about 2 days ago The perfect chocolate cake for kids w/ allergies. No dairy, no nuts, no eggs. It does'nt taste like cardboard. http://t.co/wlli6gRQ
about 3 days ago Thank you. RT @jessiemurdock : This chocolate cake is amazing, @lucywaverman you are brilliant. http://t.co/90wxVyn0 / (via @globeandmail )
about 3 days ago @blakeeligh hope it worked well.

About Daniel

A well traveled foodie, our NYC blogger has eaten his way around the world, loves to cook and comes from a family of food lovers. His great grandmother owned a restaurant and his grandmother had a cooking school and a kitchen shop--join Daniel Geneen as he follows in his family's love of food and uncovers New York City's gastronomic secrets.