Not Stag's Leap or Frog's Leap but Farmer's Leap (of faith). The 2005 The Brave Shiraz was the choice to accompany Lucy's family mixed grill this week.  Lucy's brother stumbled on this when seeking out a wine with class and guts, and he certainly found it with this bottle. Spice on the palate with the sensation of rich black cherries to follow as the wine fills the mouth; this is a wine for the distance. There is a lot of alcohol here, but well balanced, and likely to get even better for several years at least. This was an excellent fit for our grilled burgers, lamb and hangar steak.  The Brave hails from Padthaway in South Australia, a region with a climate just right for rich and powerful Shiraz wines. The area is warmer than Coonawarra a few kilometres to the south, but possessed of the same Terra Rosa soil on which some of the world's great cabernet sauvignon is grown. This terroir adds a distinctive earthiness to the final product.  Not inexpensive at close to $50, but quality is frequently expensive when it comes to wine. (90)

As exciting as it was, we needed something crisp yet elegant earlier to sip with Lucy's goat cheese tarts. The tang of the tarts suggested the flinty expressive 2006 Domaine du Baumard Savenierres. Richer than most, but still having the characteristic stony flavours on the palate, this wine contributed to an excellent beginning for this Friday night family dinner.  $22 (88)