This old-fashioned dessert is coming back into style; I saw it on gastropub menus in both Britain and New York. Think of it as a more sophisticated rice pudding. Use pearl tapioca, not the instant kind (I buy mine at Asian grocery stores). The marmalade offers a nice contrast to the richness of the pudding.

Servings: 6

Ready In: 2 hours, 10 minutes

1/3 cup pearl tapioca

1 cup water

2½ cups milk

1/3 cup sugar

Pinch salt

2 egg yolks, beaten

1 teaspoon grated lemon rind

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup whipping cream

¼ cup marmalade

Soak tapioca in water for 1 hour. Drain well. Place in pot with milk, sugar and salt. Bring to boil, stirring constantly. Lower heat to medium-low and cook slowly for 15 to 20 minutes or until thick and the tapioca balls are transparent.

Stir in egg yolks and lemon rind. Continue to cook gently for 10 minutes or until custard-like. Stir in vanilla.

Scrape into a clean bowl and press plastic wrap into the top of the pudding to prevent a skin forming. Let cool to room temperature.

Beat the cream until soft peaks form. Fold enough into tapioca for a medium soft consistency. (Use any left over to top the pudding.) Place a layer of marmalade in 6 bowls or martini glasses. Spoon tapioca over top. Chill for 30 minutes or until ready to serve.